Sexist “Eco-shaming” of Fashion YouTubers: A Best Dressed Case Study

Written By Sarah Weiner

Recently, with the rise in popularity of thrift shopping, the prominence of platforms like Depop for reselling and buying used (often vintage) clothes has encouraged younger people, particularly those interested in fashion, to abandon the “fast fashion” of Forever 21 and H&M. Buying used, or otherwise buying more sustainably and prioritizing durability of clothing has come into vogue. Online influencers have certainly pioneered this charge, with searches for “thrift hauls’’ offering over a million results, some from incredibly prominent youtubers. However, this rise in thrifting and sustainability has created many new issues. While seeming to be a net positive, as it encourages more eco-conscious choices, the higher demand simultaneously makes thrifting less accessible by causing a rise in prices. Moreover, the trend of “eco-shaming” has emerged, which encourages sustainability through shaming un-sustainable practices. Predominantly online, the practice of thrifting can easily morph into more than well-meaning suggestions to exaggerated criticisms that can be rooted in financial privilege.

Ashley, also known by her youtube channel “bestdressed,” is a fashion youtuber who has amassed an incredible following, currently at 3.7 million subscribers, turning her style and dedication into an online career. In her videos, she often advocates for more sustainable choices, doing many thrift hauls and offering styling tips, promoting second-hand online retailers like ThredUp and Depop, and encouraging her viewers to invest in long-lasting pieces. She has many detailed videos teaching her followers how to find high quality and unique items at thrift stores that they enjoy and will last. She is often very vulnerable, with video titles like “altering my clothes while bleeding out of my vagina.” Ashley isn’t afraid to discuss her sexuality, mental health, her experiences with fetishization as an Asian woman and even more intimate details of her life in videos across her channel. She frequently acknowledges her privilege and how expensive well-made and sustainable clothing can be, often offering cheaper alternatives to some pricier items in an attempt to make her videos more accessible. On her channel she appears genuinely compassionate, funny, and smart, with sleek and beautiful editing, making her videos easy and enjoyable to watch.

Despite all her best efforts, Ashley has come under some fire in recent years for some “hypocritical” choices, although she has never claimed to be “zero waste,” merely using her platform to encourage her followers to adopt more ethical fashion options when possible. In a now deleted video entitled “office lookbook// outfit ideas for work+internships” Ashley was sponsored by Amazon Prime Wardrobe, which was seen by many of her fans as reprehensible, and a sign that she was “not who they thought she was.” Much of the criticism focused on her being a “sellout,” ignoring the fact that many Youtubers rely on brand sponsorships for income. Whilst turning a blind eye to the fact that many younger or low-income fans may find resources that Ashely provides helpful, in an attempt to find affordable “professional” outfits that have been scarce with the rise of thrifting. Several other youtubers have called Ashley “problematic” for this behavior, also accusing her of performative activism on other fronts. While genuine critique of Ashley’s mistakes would certainly be warranted, much of the criticism feels excessive. Many points are speculative or incredibly invasive, or else attempting to criticize Ashley often merely for doing her job as an online fashion influencer.

Ashley has even addressed much of the criticism levied at her directly, citing how the nature of “influencers” often means trying to keep up with trends. It has also been pointed out that this sustainability pressure, and general pressure to maintain not only appearances but a certain level of activism, while at the same time seeming authentic and not “performative,” is significantly more directed towards women. Ultimately, Ashley is a woman building her career, trying to make a living while also staying true to what she believes in. It feels so often that perfection is demanded of women in the public eye that just isn’t demanded of men, seen amplified when it comes to sustainability. This undue criticism is levied so much more often at female, rather than male youtubers. Often, young, well-meaning women will find themselves at the brunt of eco-based shaming, constantly made to feel like they aren’t “doing enough.” Since the vast majority of fashion-based youtubers and Instagram influencers are women, women are often at the forefront of these “thrift haul” trends and the overall shift from a more single-use fashion mindset to a more eco-conscious one.

Often, individuals are made to feel helpless in the modern day climate crisis, feeling “eco-anxiety” and the need to cut down on personal carbon footprint in an attempt to save the world. While these efforts are understandable and admirable, it doesn’t change the fact that 71% of all carbon emissions come from just 100 companies. The efforts of those who seek to criticize Ashley are likely better served not targeting individual young women, but these companies and the world that requires a trade-off between personal ethics and survival.